Seoul State of Mind: In Conversation with MARGESHERWOOD

From Seoul’s collision of old and new to the oversized bag defining AW26, MARGESHERWOOD gives us an insider’s view of the city and the thinking behind one of Korea’s most interesting fashion names.

Seoul has always been particularly good at contradictions. Ancient and hyper-modern, restrained and playful, nostalgic and permanently in motion. It is perhaps fitting that MARGESHERWOOD should call it home.

Founded in Seoul in 2016 by designers Sungeun Um and Soonyoung Kim, MARGESHERWOOD first made its name with bags that felt familiar, but never obvious. The name itself comes from Marge Sherwood, the character in The Talented Mr. Ripley, while the brand draws on the mood and cultural sensibility of the 1990s to create something distinctly contemporary.

A decade on, its world has expanded beyond its cult accessories into shoes and ready-to-wear, while retaining the clever proportions, tactile materials and slightly unexpected details that made its bags so recognisable in the first place. Its first Seoul flagship has also recently opened in Seongsu, bringing together the brand's archives and evolving aesthetic under one roof.

During Seoul Fashion Week, we caught up with the MARGESHERWOOD team to talk about the city that continues to shape its thinking, the AW26 bag to know and where fashion people should go when they land in Seoul.

For anyone discovering MARGESHERWOOD for the first time, how would you describe the brand?

MARGESHERWOOD: “A global fashion house where our taste defines contemporary cool.”

Through MARGESHERWOOD’s distinctive perspective and aesthetic, we seek to shape new standards of style and create pieces that naturally embody our taste.

We are a fashion house that builds a culture through enduring taste, designs that transcend generations, and shared experiences and connections with people.

How does Seoul influence your designs and the way you operate as a brand?

MARGESHERWOOD: Seoul has a unique sense of balance. The old and the new coexist naturally, while tradition and modernity collide and somehow come together. It is a city that moves at an incredibly fast pace, yet traces of its past remain in its alleyways, architecture and everyday life.

Rather than recreating Seoul’s aesthetic, we are more interested in the attitude behind it, bringing contrasting elements together to create something new, looking at the familiar from our own perspective and staying true to our own standards amid constant change.

For us, Seoul is ultimately less of an image and more of a way of thinking about the brand. Like the city itself, MARGESHERWOOD moves freely between different eras and cultures, while remaining naturally connected to the present.

What is the hero piece from AW26 that truly reflects where MARGESHERWOOD stands today?

MARGESHERWOOD: The SOFT GRANDMA LAYERED BAG is one of the hero pieces of the AW26 collection, reflecting MARGESHERWOOD’s balance of distinctive details and an effortless silhouette.

Its softly draped, oversized silhouette features knot and pleated details that create a natural sense of volume. The layering of leather and suede adds textural contrast and depth to the design.

The design also reflects the directors’ practical preference for oversized bags. The base is carefully constructed to help the bag maintain its shape and prevent sagging, even when fully packed.

Every detail was considered not only from a design perspective, but also with the everyday experience of carrying and using the bag in mind.

Finally, where should fashion lovers go when they visit Seoul?

MARGESHERWOOD: We recommend visiting the MARGESHERWOOD flagship store in Seongsu. More than just a retail space, the flagship was conceived as a new chapter that brings the brand’s journey, sensibility and identity into a physical space.

Archives and pieces from each season are thoughtfully curated throughout the store, allowing visitors to experience how MARGESHERWOOD has evolved over time. The space offers a complete expression of the MARGESHERWOOD world.

Nearby, we also recommend Kith Seoul, where you can find a selection of MARGESHERWOOD pieces. Beyond these, Seongsu is home to stores from many Korean and international brands, making it a must-visit neighbourhood for anyone interested in fashion.

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