SS25:New Season, New Rules
27th April, 2025
The power of women was an undeniable characteristic of the SS25 shows seen in New York, London, Milan and Paris this season. Designers proceeded to shape the future of fashion by defining modern femininity subtly (and some, not so subtly) within their collections. Bold experimentation was met with timeless sophistication, revealing iconic silhouettes with innovative SS25 twists. Here we take a look at the trends holding supremacy for the season and commend the styles worth investing in. Whilst a capsule wardrobe holds dominance for longevity, obtaining in a number of key trend-led pieces will refresh your wardrobe and have you new-season ready in no time.
Modern Utilitarian
The runways were awash with earthy shades of olive green, beige and khaki this season, durable fabrics in structured silhouettes were prevalent at Hermes, where leather separates commanded attention in every shade of beige. A play on textures were visible where soft, sheer tops were juxtaposed with weighty, leather coats as neutral and tan shades reigned. Similarly, Daniel Lee’s collection for Burberry showcased a strong outerwear game, from funnel neck jackets to cut-out detail trench coats in khaki, cream and everything in between. Subtle drapes and structured pleats are key features of the trend, Ellie’s Saabs khaki-tone workwear inspired dress features wrap detailing and utilitarian button-back sleeves, striking the perfect balance between feminine and workwear. Shushu/Tong follows suite with an off the shoulder dress where flap pockets, structured sleeves and oversized buttons allow utilitarian notions to come through. Pleated skirts provide a feminine and contemporary take on the trend, Song For The Mute’s pleated skirt and Abadia’s Layan skirt offerings meet at a similar aesthetic.
Reimagined Menswear
Blurring the boundaries between masculine and feminine fashion was explored throughout the SS25 runway shows. Max Mara and Boss both leant in to tailored separates, suiting and clean silhouettes all
reigned in their collections yet it was Saint Laurent’s Eighties businessman vibe who dominated the trend across the four Fashion Weeks. Models took to the runway showcasing power shoulders, thick-knot ties and layered jackets, completing ensembles with heavy rimmed glasses and hands in suitably hunched pockets. Look to brands such as Remain Birger Christensen for their sleek tapered fitted blazer and built-in tie shirt for an effortless take on the trend. Asceno’s silk Cabra shirt offers a softer, lean to the feminine side with its silk fabric and polished finish, team with a pair of relaxed fit tailored trousers and a pair of Axel Arigato sneakers for a full SS25 take on the androgyny trend.
Elevated Activewear
When Stella McCartney sent models down the runway in Adidas Rasant trainers, it was the collab of the season we never knew we needed. Influenced by the iconic Monza trainers of the Seventies and Eighties, mid-shin lace ups in red, white, grey and black completed hooded sweatshirt ensembles and floaty, parachute layering. Miu Miu’s nod to athleisurewear came in the form of cropped zip jackets and zip neck tops, the
sneakers concluded the fashion-meets-sports vibe, where two worlds increasingly merge season by season. Upping the game with a feminine nod to activewear is Ottolinger’s tank maxi dress, grey marl summons notions of retro sportswear whilst the cut-out detailing evokes an elevated aesthetic. Track pants such as the Sporty and Rich Serif pants and Blumarine’s side button satin pants call on Y2K nostalgia, wear yours with a fitted tank top and heels for a coveted streetwear vibe. For an effortless take on the trend, pair your Adidas x Song For The Mute sneakers with a clean silhouetted midi dress.
Adornment Reigns
Embellishment sparkled far and wide this season, Richard Quinn’s collection displayed an abundance of ornamentation where sequins, beading, 3D florals, crystals and bows took centre stage. With references
to the 1920s and The Great Gatsby, Fendi’s delicate, neutral-tone collection was nothing short of beautiful, exhibiting glistening embellishment adorning sheer fluid shapes and the lightest of organza layering. Utilising decorative form commands attention as well as providing an opportunity to divert from the ordinary; playful notions of feathers, pearls, rhinestones and sequins make getting dressed joyful and deliver expression in the personality and identity of the wearer. Make a statement in one of 16Arlington’s glimmering staples, the Olall sequin top exudes femininity alongside a sense of occasion, apply a more-is-more attitude with additional, quintessentially ornate pieces from the brand for a top to toe look, or make your outfit your own with contrasting textured separates. Elevate your denim staples with Coperni’s studded wide leg jeans, opposing quiet luxury with their snap button trim, alternatively prepare to tickle your toes with a pair of opulently notable Paris Texas Lidia feather mules.
