Having spent London Fashion Week watching, discussing and quietly assessing what might actually translate beyond the runway, five ideas emerged for Spring/Summer 2027. Tailoring has relaxed, sheer fabrics are being layered with rather more intelligence, sequins have escaped the evening wardrobe, black is not just for winter, and leather is making an unexpected bid for summer relevance.
Softly Tailored
The suit is staying, although its corporate ambitions have diminished. For SS27, tailoring feels lighter, looser and altogether less concerned with looking authoritative. Jackets soften, trousers fall fluidly and separates take precedence over rigid matching sets. GANNI and Aleksandre Akhalkatsishvili offer a relaxed route in, while Voranida and Magda Butrym bring sculptural lines and a distinctly feminine point of view. Consider it power dressing with the volume turned down.
Sheer Intentions
Transparency returns, but not simply for the sake of exposure. The new sheer layer adds movement, texture and depth, appearing through diaphanous skirts, translucent dresses and barely-there tops worn over more substantial foundations. Cecilie Bahnsen brings romance and volume, Voranida adds architectural precision and The Garment keeps the proposition characteristically controlled. The trick is to reveal something, not everything. Mystery still has its uses.
Shine in Daylight
Sequins and embellishment have finally abandoned the idea that they must wait until evening. For SS27, shine is treated as texture: beading with tailoring, crystal details with simple separates and sequins worn with an air of complete nonchalance. 16Arlington excels at polished glamour, Des Phemmes brings an intricate, artful sensibility and ROTATE supplies the pieces that make an entrance without requiring one. Daylight is very much invited.
Leather, Lightened Up
Leather for summer sounds faintly contrary, which is precisely part of its appeal. The season’s version is supple, streamlined and lighter in both colour and construction. Think clean jackets, neat skirts and polished separates styled with sheer layers or bare skin. ARMA makes leather feel beautifully considered, while ROTATE brings a sharper, more playful edge. One strong piece is sufficient. This is summer, after all.
Back to Black
Black has spent long enough being treated as winter’s exclusive property. For SS27, it returns in lighter fabrics, sharper cut-outs and airy silhouettes that feel entirely appropriate for warmer days. SIMKHAI brings sculptural sensuality, GANNI keeps the mood effortless and Cecilie Bahnsen softens the shade with sheer volume and romantic texture. The appeal is its refusal to look overly seasonal. Black always knows what it is doing.
